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Before the Agreement took
effect, a large portion of textiles and clothing exports
from developing countries to the industrial countries was
subject to quotas under a special regime outside normal
GATT rules. Under the Agreement, WTO Members have
committed themselves to remove the quotas by 1 January
2005 by integrating the sector fully into GATT rules.
Multifibre
Arrangement (MFA)
1974-1994 Back
to top
Up
to the end of the Uruguay Round, textile and clothing
quotas were negotiated bilaterally and governed by the
rules of the Multifibre Arrangement (MFA). This provided
for the application of selective quantitative
restrictions when surges in imports of particular
products caused, or threatened to cause, serious damage
to the industry of the importing country. The Multifibre
Arrangement was a major departure from the basic GATT
rules and particularly the principle of
non-discrimination. On 1 January 1995 it was replaced by
the WTO Agreement on Textiles and Clothing which sets out
a transitional process for the ultimate removal of these
quotas.
The
WTO Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC)
1995-2004 Back
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The
ATC is a transitional instrument, built on the following
key elements: (a) the product coverage, basically
encompassing yarns, fabrics, made-up textile products and
clothing; (b) a programme for the progressive integration
of these textile and clothing products into GATT 1994
rules; (c) a liberalization process to progressively
enlarge existing quotas (until they are removed) by
increasing annual growth rates at each stage; (d) a
special safeguard mechanism to deal with new cases of
serious damage or threat thereof to domestic producers
during the transition period; (e) establishment of a
Textiles Monitoring Body (“TMB”) to supervise
the implementation of the Agreement and ensure that the
rules are faithfully followed; and (f) other provisions,
including rules on circumvention of the quotas, their
administration, treatment of non-MFA restrictions, and
commitments undertaken elsewhere under the WTO's
agreements and procedures affecting this sector.
The
product coverage, listed in the Annex to the ATC,
covers all products which were subject to MFA or MFA-type
quotas in at least one importing country.
The
integration process is laid down in ATC Article 2
and stipulates how Members shall integrate the products
listed in the Annex into the rules of GATT 1994 over the
10-year period. This process is to be carried out
progressively in three stages (3 years, 4 years, 3 years)
with all products standing integrated at the end of the
10-year period. The first stage began on 1 January 1995
with the integration by Members of products representing
not less than 16 per cent of that Member's total 1990
imports of all the products in the Annex. At stage 2, on
1 January 1998, not less than a further 17 per cent was
integrated. At stage 3, on 1 January 2002, not less than
a further 18 per cent will be integrated. Finally at the
end, on 1 January 2005, all remaining products (amounting
up to 49 per cent of 1990 imports into a Member) will
stand integrated and the Agreement terminates. Each
importing Member decides itself which products it will
integrate at each stage to reach these thresholds. The
only constraint is that the integration list must
encompass products from each of the four groupings: tops
and yarns, fabrics, made-up textile products and
clothing.
The
four WTO Members which maintained import restrictions
under the former MFA (Canada, EC, Norway and the US) were
required to undertake this integration process and to
notify to the TMB the first phase of their programmes of
integration by 1 October 1994. Other WTO Members were
required, first, to notify the TMB if they wished to
retain the right to use the transitional safeguard
mechanism in the ATC (Article 6.1) and, if so, to provide
their first stage integration lists. Fifty-five Members
chose to retain this right and most of them provided
lists of products for integration. Nine Members,
Australia, Brunei Darussalam, Chile, Cuba, Hong Kong,
Iceland, Macau, New Zealand and Singapore decided not to
maintain the right to use the ATC safeguard mechanism.
They are deemed to have integrated 100 per cent at the
outset.
Concurrent
with the integration process, there is a programme for
liberalizing the existing restrictions, that is, for
enlarging the bilateral quotas carried over from the
former MFA on 1 January 1995 (Article 2.1) until such
time as the products are integrated into GATT, at which
time the quotas terminate. These former MFA quotas, when
carried over into the ATC on 1 January 1995, represented
the starting point for an automatic liberalization
process set out in Article 2, paragraphs 12-16. The
former MFA growth rates applicable to each of these
quotas were increased on 1 January 1995 by a factor of 16
per cent for the first stage of the Agreement and the new
growth rate was applied annually. The stage 1 growth rate
was further increased by a factor of 25 per cent for the
second stage on 1 January 1998; and will be increased by
a further 27 per cent for the last stage beginning 1
January 2002. To illustrate this process, a 6 per cent
growth rate under the MFA in 1994 became 6.9 per cent
under the ATC and applied each year 1995/96/97; then it
was increased to 8.7 per cent for each year
1998/99/2000/01; and then will be increased to 11.05 per
cent for 2002/3/4. For small suppliers (as defined in
Article 2.18) the growth factors (16 per cent, 25 per
cent, 27 per cent) are to be advanced by one stage.
Quotas will be eliminated either when the products
concerned are integrated into GATT at one of the stages
or at the end of the transition on 1 January 2005. There
are additional provisions in Article 2 for early removal
of quotas and integration of products.
Article
3 deals with quantitative restrictions (or measures
with similar effect) other than those under the MFA. Members
which had such restrictions in place, which could not be
justified under a GATT provision, were required either to
bring them into conformity with GATT rules or phase them
out within the ten year transitional period, according to
a plan to be submitted by the restraining Member to the
Textiles Monitoring Body. There is no obligation to
eliminate restrictions that are permitted under GATT
rules.
A
key aspect of the ATC is the provision in Article 6 for a
special transitional safeguard mechanism intended
to protect Members against damaging surges in imports
during the transition period from products which have not
yet been integrated into GATT and which are not already
under quota. This clause is based on a two-tiered
approach - first, the importing Member must determine
that total imports of a specific product are causing
serious damage, or actual threat thereof, to its domestic
industry and second, it must then decide to which
individual Member(s) this serious damage can be
attributed. Specific criteria and procedures are set out
for each step. The importing Member must then seek
consultations with the exporting Member(s). Such
safeguard measures may be applied on a selective,
country-by-country basis by mutual agreement or, if
agreement is not reached through the consultation process
within 60 days, by unilateral action. The quota may not
be lower than the actual level of imports for that
exporting country during a recent 12 month period, and
the action taken may remain in place for up to three
years only. If the measure is in place for more than one
year, growth shall, with one exception, be no less than 6
per cent. In practice, the special safeguard was invoked
on 24 occasions in 1995 by the United States, 8 times in
1996 (Brazil 7, US 1), 2 times in 1997 by the United
States, and 10 times in 1998 (Colombia 9, US 1).
Article
5 of the ATC contains rules and procedures concerning circumvention
of the quotas through transshipment, re-routing,
false declaration of origin, or falsification of official
documents. These require, inter alia, consultation
and full cooperation in the investigation of such
practices by Members concerned. When sufficient evidence
is available, possible recourse might include the denial
of entry of goods. There is also a provision whereby all
Members should establish, consistent with their domestic
laws and procedures, the necessary legal provisions
and/or administrative procedures to address and take
action against circumvention.
Administration
of restrictions during the transition period will
remain with the exporting Members and any changes in
practices, rules or procedures shall be subject to
consultations with a view to reaching mutually acceptable
solutions (Article 4).
Provisions
relating to the commitments undertaken in all areas of
the Uruguay Round as they relate to textiles and clothing
require that all Members “shall take such actions as
may be necessary” to abide by these rules and
disciplines so as to achieve improved market access, to
ensure the application of fair and equitable trading
conditions and to avoid discrimination against textiles
and clothing imports (Article 7). If an exporting Member
is found not to be complying with its obligations, the
Dispute Settlement Body or the Council for Trade in Goods
may authorize an adjustment to the quota growth for that
country which is otherwise an automatic growth.
The
Textiles Monitoring Body has been established to
supervise the implementation of the ATC and to examine
all measures taken under it, to ensure that they are in
conformity with the rules. It is a quasi-judicial,
standing body which consists of a Chairman and ten TMB
members, discharging their function on an ad personam
basis and taking all decisions by consensus. The ten
members are appointed by WTO Member governments according
to an agreed grouping of WTO Members into constituencies.
There can be rotation within the constituencies. These
characteristics make the TMB a unique institution within
the WTO framework. In January 1995, the General Council
decided upon the composition for the TMB for the first
stage. In December 1997, the General Council decided upon
the composition for the second stage (1998-2001) with TMB
members to be appointed by WTO Members designated from
the following constituencies: (a) the ASEAN Member
countries; (b) Canada and Norway; (c) Pakistan and China
(after accession); (d) the European Communities; (e)
Korea and Hong Kong, China; (f) India and
Egypt/Morocco/Tunisia; (g) Japan; (h) Latin American and
Caribbean Members; (i) the United States; and (j) Turkey,
Switzerland and Bulgaria/Czech Republic/Hungary/
Poland/Romania, Slovak Republic/Slovenia. Provisions were
made for alternates to be appointed by the members in
each of the constituencies and in some cases second
alternates; there are also two non-participating
observers from Members not already represented in this
structure, one from Africa and one from Asia. The TMB
Chairman is Mr András Szepesi.
The
TMB provided a comprehensive report to the CTG in July
1997 on the implementation of the ATC in the first stage
(G/L/179); its 1998 report is in G/L/270. The Goods
Council conducted a major review of the operation of the
ATC in the first stage during the final quarter of 1997;
its report is in G/L/224
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